For my lamps or heavy crystal flower vase I put a few pea size dots around the edge of the object and then push it down on the couter to get it really flattened out and make a good contact. Caution, when the instructions says to use a small pea size amount it means it, because it WILL ooze out around the edge when you flaten the object to the counter. I have NEVER had a problem with the stuff coming loose unless it wanted it to. To remove Museum Wax, first I use a straight edge object such as a butter knife or a plastic putty knife to just scrape the excess off the counter or item the wax is on, and then any cleaner with orange oil in it will take off the rest without alot of elbow grease. It holds really well even lamps on my countertop going down the road in our bus with 'unexpected' stops. It will come off with a combination of dabbing, pulling and rolling with a larger piece. I have used Museum Wax (not the gel) for about 6 years or more. Museum Putty may seem difficult to remove from some surfaces at first. If you have any experience with how those substances fare over several years, let me know in the comments. The company offers several other products, such as their Clear Gel and Museum Wax.
These seem like pretty common materials for both the collectibles and the surfaces they sit on. The Putty product is designed to protect collectibles, but I've found it makes a mess on ceramic, wood, granite and metal. It starts out as a white clay-like substance and it tends to ooze a bit from underneath whatever you're sticking down, so that dust grey yuckiness does show. So even if you just leave the item in place, it is slowly getting really grubby underneath. It may not feel sticky, but dust bonds permanently to it, changing it from white to grey. Description This is a specially-blended combination of microcrystalline waxes designed for use with antiquities in museums. I couldn't remove it using water, ammonia, rubbing alcohol, mineral oil, or elbow grease! Sean suggested I try diesel fuel, but c'mon! That shouldn't be necessary to use to clean in the bathroom or anywhere else in your home.
Removing the putty is easy, just lift and twist the object as for the putty will not leave any marks or residue. Pull off amount needed, roll it in your fingers until soft, and apply to the base of the object. Yesterday I decided to completely reorganize the cabinet, and the QuakeHold was awful. Removable, reusable and non-toxic, the QuakeHOLD Putty secures antiques, collectibles and more from falling and breaking. Three years ago, I used little dabs of it in our medicine cabinet to keep storage trays from sliding. While it does keep items from moving, over time it turns into a mess that is nearly impossible to remove. I had seen it recommended in a number of RV magazines and bulletin boards.įolks, I cannot recommend this stuff to you. You can wet the putty and knead it to make it slightly softer.When we first moved into Odyssey, I used a product called QuakeHold Putty to stick down small items that I didn't want to slide around.
#Quake hold putty zip
TO STORE: Place putty in Saran Wrap then in a zip lock bag to keep it from drying out. Press onto bottom of container you with to temporaily stick somewhere. Take a small piece of putty and roll into a ball. TO USE: Knead a small piece until it softens s bit. 75″ x 1″. Can be re-used countless times. TO STORE: place putty in Saran Wrap then in a zip lock bag to keep it from drying out.īlack Putty is firmer than Earth Quake putty but designed to hold greater weighted objects. Keep wrapped in plastic so it does not harden. TO REMOVE: Twist and pull gently to remove your container. TO USE: Take a small piece of putty and roll into a ball. Earth Quake Putty & Museum Putty are the same item.
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